Anrealage designer Kunihiko Morinaga presented an exceptionally focused and dramatic collection drawing inspiration from structural art deco forms.   Highlighter bright crinoline was laser cut to form complex geometric prisms encapsulating simple frocks.  Following, the dimensions were flattened into angular cob-web like tops adroitly placed over art deco printed dresses.  The showstopper here was when Morinaga combined both variations on his theme in a fulgurant yellow trench.  It almost appeared as if his trench had such geometric propensity it was hovering around that bold persimmon dress. 

Nozomi Ishiguro must have also been feeling inspired by cages and entrapment when designing her “Psycho Killer” collection for her Tambourine diffusion line.  But instead of embracing the security of captivity, Ishiguro’s impulse was to run, run, run away.  The collection was bookended by strong looks featuring knits, dresses, and tops that were deftly slashed and shredded.  The result was artfully softened pieces; their initial strict silhouettes subverted into clothing that almost melted down the body.  In menswear the technique was most successful when paired with prison-striped drop crotch trousers.  For the girls, the double-layered, hooded cream dress was memorable worn over a lilac bandeau and nude lace hot pants.

Neons and geometric prints seemed to be the emerging trend from the shows on Day 4 and 5.  The riposte of Dresscamp’s founding designer, Toshikazu Iwaya (after a four year hiatus from the label), delivered a strong showing, alleviating those with disquieting anticipation.  The show opened with a neon pink cocoon dress styled with matching eye and a matte gold lip.  For menswear, Iwaya stuck to a casual streetwear vibe with track jackets, shredded sweatpants and shorts.  The Mondrian-esque printed tracksuit (with shorts, for spring, naturally) and matching gym bag and cap was a standout look.  Menswear designer Yoshio Kubo was also inspired by athletics, presenting his collection down a runway that looked as if it was transplanted from the 500-meter dash.  Yet the clothes weren’t all about sports (sportswear, perhaps). Tailored shirts were tucked into wide flat front shorts and accessorized with bling belt buckles.   When paired with blazers, the shorts were pleated and revealed significantly more leg.  Some models wore full-face makeup suitable for a clown or a mime, while others had splotches of neon hair.  I personally will get into a manic panic if I can’t secure that black, white, and auroral raspberry striped button-up come next spring.

Stay tuned for our final installment covering the highlights of Tokyo Fashion Week!

by Michael Costa